Friday 19/8

I had a bit of a fitful night, dreaming of leaking tents, and at no time did the rain pause for breath. When I finally woke up I found the actual tent as dry as ever, although a few drops were finding their way through the entrance zipper (which was no big deal since they only ended up on the rain cover-covered rucksack). I called the fjeld weather service, which stated that the rain would be subsiding towards the evening. Most of the others intended to leave for Kvikkjokk in short fashion, but Håkan, Marita, Fredrik, David and myself would be staying until the next day (Fredrik had a cold, and David was to guide the couple up to their tent). We gathered one last time in the hut, and then those who were leaving did so.

I remained in the hut and talked about Hamberg and his buildings with Håkan and Fredrik. Some quiet time in the tent later we sat down inside for a collective lunch. Soon David came back and joined in, and he said that (surprise surprise) things were even wetter now. The rain seemed to be getting lighter, however, so we hoped that the water would have time to sink appreciably before our own return down to Kvikkjokk. Eventually I decided to go on a walk myself; I had yet to visit the Sámi encampment, and now that things appeared to be improving I thought that I'd take the chance.

I left at 13:30, passing a couple of small lakes that had formed on the entrance path, and then took the path leading up to the encampment. There was a lot of mist around, but visibility was much better than before. I passed a brook easily and then came to the first buildings, shortly after which I found myself at an impassable stream below a small waterfall. I took another path, rounding a larger puddle, and then came to another group of buildings. I turned westwards, passing more houses, and then came out on a large open expanse.

The forest on the far side was both dense and wet, so I went back, following another path into the thickets, where I saw the backside of what might have been a hawk in flight. After pushing through some larger bushes I came out behind the first buildings I had seen and followed the main path back southwards, and while on a mire I saw two people going up the western path. Back in the forest I picked some blueberries for immediate consumption – there were large quantities of them – and at the last mire I found some very nice-looking cloudberries as well. It was just after 14:30 when I came back, and now the rain had all but ceased.

Gállakvárre shrouded

The Pårek plain

Gasskagårsåjågåsj

One of many huts

Not passable

Old structures

Older structure

Newer structures

Both!

Autumn in store

Going back down

I found David and Fredrik in the outbuilding, tending to the fire, and then went inside the hut for afternoon tea. We talked for a long time, and Håkan and Marita made slow progress in packing up their things. The rain was very light, but it was still falling, and all around there was mist in some form. After dinner I finished the book, and now the rain finally seemed finished as well, with improved visibility as a result. I packed up what I could and prepared for an early departure, and then went over to the hut where I found the others. David left for bed early, having more reason to do so than the rest of us, who stayed up talking a while longer. I received a text message from Bo with an update on the condition of the trail, and then had a last evening snack in my tent. The brook was already slightly but noticeably lower, and it was with a good deal of hope that I turned in for the last night in Pårek at 22.

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