Friday 1/8 – part one

I slept well, waking only to pull the duvet over me when it got slightly chilly in the early morning. By the time I arose at 07:30 there were a few clouds in evidence, some of which just covered the peak of Suliskongen, and there was a bank of fog out on the lake. As I went through morning procedures the clouds slowly lifted over the massif, but off to the east they seemed to be amassing, quite according to the forecast which spoke of thunder in the afternoon at Pieskehaure. As such I didn't dally, wanting to cover the whole stage before it hit, and after saying goodbye to the Germans I left just before 09:00.

There was again an easterly wind blowing, but it was markedly weaker than the day before. Up on the threshold before the national border there were a few more snowfields, but other than that the ground was very pleasant to walk. Border cairn 238 was pretty close to the trail, but since I had no particular errand there I stuck to the path. The sun, which had been clouded for a while, was now coming back out, which together with even less wind made things warm indeed. The subsequent extensive hollow consisted of wetland, and the further along I got the wider the view over Bieskehávrre grew, even though there was a heavy distance haze in the warm air.

Leaving

Higher up

Threshold

Loameluoppal

First glimpse of Bieskehávrre

Markers

Switching nationality

The massif emerging behind

Hazed lake ahead

Suliskongen almost free

At the trail split to Mavas there was a wonderful spot where the stream from the wetlands above played over rock faces in terraces with small intermediate pools, and even though it just begged for a pause – or even camp – it was way too early to grant, but I filed it away for future reference. The clouds were growing darker off to the northeast as I made my way along the eastbound trail, which cut across a very flowery tract, and the growing sun together with an almost complete lack of wind made walking rather uncomfortable – not to mention an excess of mosquitos in among all the vegetation.

At the split

Flattened stream

Stepped

Cabins at the outflow

Hazy

Passing a ravine

Cloudier ahead

Slanting (notice mosquito smudge)

The quality of the path varied quite a bit, and some portions were on the wetter side. It was now even darker ahead, and I heard the rumble of thunder in the distance, but the whole thing still seemed far off. After a dry portion leading upwards the path soon lost itself in among thickets of osier and other dense things, and I ended up making my own way beneath a steeper part of the slope. Here the ground was slanting at an uncomfortable angle, so I started picking my way downwards. I was now pretty certain that I had missed a turn somewhere and ended up too low, so as soon as I was able I started making my way back up, following more or less open swaths of ground until I reached the actual trail again.

Lots of flowers

Steeper

More blooming things

As the path started going downhill a sudden wind picked up, which was a real blessing in the pressing heat, and the dark clouds were now actually on the verge of breaking up. Behind me the twin peaks of Nuortta Sávllo had also emerged from their previous hiding place, but I myself was walking in shadow again. The bridge over Lájrrojåhkå had a noticeable sideway slant, so I held on tightly to the downstream railing as I slowly crossed over the powerful gushing of the glacial waters. The next bridge just a few hundred meters away was straight and the waters of Labbájåhkå were not quite as intimidating.

Down I go

Island in the long lake

Regal

Spot the cottage

The Lájrrosläddo delta

Nuortta Sávllo

Stuor Varvvek

Suliskongen appearing again

Lájrrojåhkå

Bridge over

Perched avian

Labbájåhkå

The cottage had been in full view since around the place where I had lost the path, and now I observed a single hiker making their way there across the plain ahead of me. After a simple ford and a short break I crossed said plain myself, and now the sun was coming out again as if to greet my arrival. The Varvvekjåhkå bridge was a rusty contraption, after which I proceeded straight to the warden's cottage right at noon as the other person appeared to have gone inside already.

Close now

Nuortta Sávllo across the lake

Even closer

Massif view

Last bridge of the day

Arrived!