Friday 30/12

Without hiccups I found myself on the bus to Vålådalen, and looking out the window I saw that the sky was overcast and although there appeared to be a bit of mist in the air visibility was fairly good, except further off to the west. Upon arrival I fiddled with my stuff as others did the same, but I left on my own at 09:45 just as a dense snowfall started. There wasn't too much snow on the ground, though; not that there was any significant lack of it, but the long grass on the first field jutted out above the white cover. Where the ski and snowmobile trails went their separate ways I stuck with the former, where there was an older ski track. I very nearly broke through the weak ice on the first stream crossing, but the second was better. There appeared to be an old snowmobile track somewhere further down, which provided a good base; out in the open areas the winter storm that had hit the middle parts of the country at Yule had filled in everything, but making new tracks was not difficult.

Leaving snowy Vålådalen...

...across a snowy field...

...into snowy forest

The snowfall was thinning out, but did not stop, and I was starting to feel warm. After the next intersection with the snowmobile trail it increased again, and the mires offered no views of note. At the next trail split I did note that the branch to Vålåvalen was – or at least seemed – untouched. As I progressed on the Stensdalen trail the wind picked up, and in my direction of travel there was mostly a haze. After a while I came onto a fresher snowmobile track, but once again it had been erased for the most part out in the open. When I was passing a series of connected mires I thought it was about time to stop for lunch, and broke off towards the trees to my right to find a sheltered spot. This I did, and used my shovel to dig a seat for myself at a strategically amassed pile of snow next to a large birch at 11:45.

Snowy mire

Another snowy mire

Uvberget (Owl Mountain)

As I sat there the snowfall stopped, and there was even a few brief and weak glimpses of the sun among the trees. Towards the end of the break a group of four passed by, and as I set out again I discovered that they had sought out the same trees just a short bit further along the trail, so it was back to making tracks. The weather was improving, with less cloud content in the sky and some more visits from a sun veiled by drifting clouds. As I reached higher, open ground the wind grew stronger again, and I pulled up my hood to compensate. Visibility was improving, however, and soon I could discern the familiar shape of the sharp outrunner on Lill-Stensdalsfjället.

The wind blew on and off, and on the whole skiing was comfortable, so I didn't rush things. As I was drawing closer to my destination I caught sight of something further ahead, and as I had guessed it turned out to be the temporary sleeping building transported out to compensate for the beds lost in the recent fire. It didn't seem to be in operation at the moment, however, and I saw no other signs of people as I skied past the temporary mess tent to the remaining cottage at 13:45.

Lighter

Hey, sun!

Hints of, at least

Drawing closer

Good visibility

Across the basin, too

Lill-Stensdalsfjället

Giedtietjaerhvie

Temporary housing...

...and mess facilities

Inside the mess tent

I left my skis and pack outside and went over to the warden, whom I recognized from an earlier meet-up in Vålådalen. We spoke for a bit and I looked into the spare-room-turned-shop, which seemed to fill its purpose rather well. Then followed the customary glögg and more conversation, after which I entered the room in the guest cottage which had been occupied the night before, and was therefore warmer (or less cold) than the other one. The weather was still of the back-and-forth variety, and at the moment it came with wind and snow.

Before taking off my outer clothes I went to fetch water, and as I did so two new people arrived. In short fashion we realized that we knew each other already, for these were the same two with whom I had spent New Year's in Vålåvalen four years ago, and things would be repeating themselves now. They also said that the group of four I had seen earlier had turned around; they had been out on a day tour from Vålådalen, and had realized that they probably wouldn't reach Stensdalen and get back before dark. While they went to get some more water and firewood I set about firing up the heater, which required some work before I had a nice fire going; I think some of the logs were somewhat less than dry.

Soon the warden came in with more glögg, and announced that the sauna would be warm in less than two hours. That meant that it would be better to have dinner afterwards, so I munched on some of the dried sausages I had brought to strengthen the dinner pasta. After some communal resting there were sounds outside, and two Frenchmen entered the other room. By this time it was dark, and they had gone the last bit with the aid of artificial light. Soon thereafter it was finally time for sauna, and before too long everyone present was there. It wasn't too warm to begin with, but it got better later on. During a snow plunge I noted that the stars were out and had it not been for the wind it would have been rather nice outside, but at the next outing the clouds had clammed up again. The Frenchmen were dubious about our goings-on, but they both finally gave in, and although some strange sounds were involved they agreed that it does feel good – afterwards.

I was the first to return up, where I found that the Frenchmen had left candles burning in their room – but fortunately there was no second devastating fire to deal with. I started dinner at once, hungry as I was, and the others joined me in this as soon as they arrived. We were all feeling drowsy afterwards, and I slumbered off reading an information booklet. Coming out of it I read for a bit and then had my evening snack. It was back to snow and wind outside, but inside it was nice and warm, and it was with appreciable fatigue that I went to bed at 22:15.