Friday 17/7 – Tuesday 21/7
Wetness
Friday 17/7
I slept through the night and spent the morning in bed listening to the radio. The sky was partially clear with high veils diminishing the sunlight somewhat. Both duos made their way across the ford safely, albeit at different speeds, and the family was preparing to leave, bestowing a few unusued onions on me. After they had departed I set about cleaning the cottage through and through, which took some time, and then did some woodshed-related work. I had a visit by a single hiker who continued inwards after the usual chat, and then I started baking the last batch of bread.
After lunch another single hiker made her way rather quickly down the path from Abiskojaure, and then effortlessly across the ford – and from this and the lack of pack I guessed that this was one of the wardens I had met over there on my own visit. I was proved correct when Gunilla trotted up to my cottage, and we talked for a good while out on the porch there before she went to check out the buildings. Just as she was leaving another pair were making their way across the ford barefoot, which took some time and as usual was not the most balanced of acts – and not surprisingly they were to have lunch beside the cottage before continuing.
Winged
Later in the afternoon darker clouds were rolling in from the west, soon bringing light rain, but visibility remained good. I lay down to rest and slumbered for a while, and when I came to I observed five people coming along the water, eventually going up to the actual trail, and another three were coming down the Låktatjåkka path. The quintet was a family who would be camping nearby, and they went on to the next lake as more rain hit. The trio which also included a dog then arrived, and after some deliberation they opted to camp on the headland in the middle lake.
Going in
I had also been watching a total of seven people coming down the Abiskojaure path, two of whom had taken a detour up to/through the marble quarry, and they all eventually came over the ford correctly without pointers. The first two were a Swedish couple who would tent nearby, and the rest consisted of a Danish family who were staying inside; these had a somewhat more slurred dialect than the previous Danes, but it was intelligible most of the time. More rain was falling, and I spent the evening with crosswords, sudoku and reading. As I was preparing for bed the precipitation had stopped, and it was mostly still after some strong gusts earlier. I also noted an increased sound level from the various waterfalls, which were visibly more voluminous to boot.
Saturday 18/7
In the morning it was mostly cloudy and the peaks were playing peekaboo. After breakfast I went over to the Danes for a short weather report, after which I answered questions from both one of the other family of five who had passed the day before, and a new pair who came from the west heading for Abiskojaure. The water in Gorsajohka was now noticeably higher due to the combined effects of the recent warmth and recent rain, but the duo had no problem getting across.
Juvenile traces
The weather was slowly but steadily improving, with the best conditions inwards. Two other campers from yesterday stopped by for a chat before going on up towards Låktatjåkka, and another new pair who had been approaching on the trail went down towards the water and set up camp beside the winter trail markers. After the Danes had left and I had taken care of things I decided to go out for a shorter lunch tour myself, and left after 11:30.
I started out along the Låktatjåkka path, going straight up on my own after the first wet osier thicket that had previously been covered by a snowfield. The ground was mostly good and a pleasant wind cooled things off as I ascended. I observed the two people from the winter trail tent making their way over to the cottage, where they appeared to sit down and admire the views (or something), while I proceeded upwards along the edge of a gulley. I passed a bunch of birch trees underneath a marked shelf, upon which I had to navigate a mixture of juniper bushes and flat rocks, landing on a stony path of sorts leading to the tripod and insect tent the Latnjajávri scientists had erected there; their description of the shelf as an "unexpected meadow" was in fact what had prompted this little excursion.
On the path
Gorsačohkka over there
Gorsavággi east
Gorsavággi west
Lake below
Vegetation photography
Insect capture
And it was indeed flowery, the sheer cliff above giving rise to a microclimate amenable to different types of plants than the surroundings could support. I walked around a bit admiring the biodiversity, being careful to keep to the areas that had already been trampled by boots, and then sat down on a flat rock right after noon. The two cottage visitors were heading back, but one of them took the Låktatjåkka path while the other returned to their tent. The sun was clouded on and off, and temperatures were markedly cooler without it, which together with the wind made me put the wind jacket on. Having eaten I explored the shelf some more, finding additional intriguing species of flowers, and then finally started heading down again, keeping the jacket on.
Blue
White
Purple
Pink
Large collection
Small collection
Local collection
Minuscule collection
Loner
Overhanging
I went off to the west for a bit, but finding even more juniper and rocks there I then went straight down instead. The camping five were returning from a day tour up the valley, and immediately on reaching their tent they started striking it. I descended beside the same gulley at first, but then crossed it and headed for a large rock halfway up the slope, going through low bushes and the like without much trouble. From there I made my way across more pleasant ground, noting several good campsites, while the tenters set off eastwards. I reached the lower valley path right behind them in increasing sunlight and warmth, and passed them by along the water, returning at 13:30.
At the rock
Down on the floor
I spoke some with the campers before they left, buying some cottage patches as they did so, and then two new people arrived, heading inwards. After an afternoon snack I set about cleaning the windows of the warden's cottage, towards the end of which a single runner came up; she was from the Abisko staff and had taken the southern side of the lakes, unusually enough, and I spoke some with her while she had a food break and rested out on the larger bench. Another single hiker was making his way down the northern slope, and from his lack of pack and direction I surmised that this was the other tenter from before. After the Abisko girl had left I made dinner, finishing off the last of the summery stuff I had for dessert.
Afterwards I carried in the last few logs of old firewood that still remained outside, now completely dry, and then I had to wave to another two people from Abiskojaure who were about to attempt the ford too high up, which was now even harder due to the higher water levels. Once across I found out – surprise! – that they were moving on, towards Låktatjåkka. Three more people were just descending along that path, and when they arrived they turned out to consist of a couple and a single man, who were all going to tent – the man would be doing so beside the cottage, while the other two went eastwards to the headland.
It was a very fair evening and the wind had died down too, so I took a stroll among the hills. The winter trail campers paid another visit, this time in my presence, and we talked a bit about the Abiskojaure route. Later on I waved down another couple of people from that direction, while at the same time another pair who had come down from the north walked straight over to a lower hill along the winter trail where they set up camp. The two forders quickly made their way across, and they were an odd pair; foreigners without a tent, but with beer – "we have prioritized", they said – and I gave them some pointers with regard to nearby routes and weather forecasts before they went up among the hills. After that I could go to bed myself, which occurred at 22:30.
Sunday 19/7
Before the rain
There was rainfall during the night, and in the morning it was overcast with drifting clouds around the inner peaks. The tenter left quiety, and since he had barely touched the kitchen area cleaning was easy. I spent some time sawing through a few more logs, making my two stacks equally high, and then finally managed to dislodge the incinerator's chimney which had been jammed inside the rusty thing, but it was not yet time to burn anything. The winter trail tenters passed by on their way to Abiskojaure, and then I went out for a final fishing attempt.
Morning greeter
Long clouds...
...creeping over the slopes
Finished!
Finally!
I walked down to the usual place at the lake, and despite that it was calm there were no fish breaking the surface, so I stood casting more or less randomly. To no avail, however, for there was no sign of life at any time, even though I kept at it quite extensively. After the closest campers (who were the last to arrive) had also left for Abisko I went over to check out their campsite, finding it to be quite bumpy, and then met a family of six people with a small (and jittery) dog. They had a multitude of questions, mostly regarding their continued route which was not yet decided, and they sat down against the old warden's cottage while they mulled things over.
After lunch they had finally decided to aim for (or at least towards) Låktatjåkka, and soon thereafter the two other people who had gone up the valley the day before came back, having a lunch break of their own before continuing towards Abisko. Right on their heels followed a single woman, who turned out to be my successor Anna; she had walked from Trollsjön over the heights and would now be leaving some stuff with me and set out on a shorter circuit before returning for the actual switch a couple of days later. We spoke for quite some time, partly about new routines and practical matters, and it was quite warm when a veiled sun shone upon the land.
Four people soon arrived from Låktatjåkka and would be staying the night, so I showed them in while Anna checked out the warden's cottage. More talks with her followed and then the two tenters left, heading upwards, after which a family of four who were camped at the lower lake came by, wanting to press just a bit further inwards before heading back. Anna eventually left heading for Frippe's fall, and I also espied the two prioritizers from the evening before further up the slope.
Calm
Loon in flight
Two people were coming down the Abiskojaure path and were thwarted by the marble quarry brook, in the end giving up and taking their (low) shoes off after trying many different crossing places. Once at the ford they first attempted it barefoot, but after nearly falling over on the slippery rocks they put their shoes on anyway, so when they came up they opted for the service fee to dry and pitched their tent outside. A light haze had come from the east, and there were now drops in the air which turned into actual light rain. Three campers arrived from Björkliden, having eschewed Låktatjåkka due to the snow, and went on a little bit before tenting, after which I sat down for dinner and dessert.
The rain increased in intensity and the haze hung heavy in the air, with drifting clouds around the peaks. A single woman arrived from Abisko with a reservation, so I accompanied her over to the guest cottage where the two tenters were preparing dinner. It rained on and off throughout the evening, and when it was on it was often quite intense, and there was a strong northerly wind as well. I spent the time reading and listening to the radio, and eventually the clouds started to lift and it grew comfortable outside again.
Monday 20/7
The morning came with high, light clouds and some visible sky. The quartet had left early and the tenters were packing, and after talking some with the remaining guest I started packing too as my own stay was soon coming to an end. A bit later two people came along the path, and as they were heading towards Låkta I gave them the usual pointers. Once everyone had left and I had given the guest cottage a once-over a light haze was approaching from the east, bringing a drizzle.
As I was finishing my lunch two people came from the west, having taken the snowy Guoblavággi route, and as it was still raining I let them into the old warden's cottage for shelter while they weighed their options. Conditions worsened further during the early afternoon, with low clouds obscuring the peaks and passes. Eventually one of the two hikers requested beds for the night, so the response had to be the usual one: wait for the evening. They would, however, be staying in some manner either way, paying the service fee and tenting outside in case of crowding, so they transferred to the guest cottage and started a fire to unfreeze.
A bit later a single man came along the trail, and after a chat about present and future conditions he sat down to prepare food by the lake before continuing towards Låktatjåkka. Two people were coming down from that direction, and another three were visible from time to time in the fog up along the Abiskojaure path. In the end the former turned out to be booked visitors and the latter turned down towards the lake, where they crossed the lower outflow to the northern side and then proceeded eastwards along the winter trail. I also noted that the single hiker had only made it a few hundred meters up the slope before the rain prompted him to pitch his tent almost right on the path.
The rain kept at it in the evening, visibility coming and going. I started making my own entry in the wardens' impression book and packed/
Tuesday 21/7
It was a rainy night, and the drumming sound of drops on the metal cover of the gas canisters right outside the bed wall disturbed my sleep. As I got up in the morning the rain had stopped and there was no or little wind, but on the other hand very low clouds were drifting through the valley. The two campers were the first to leave, crossing the ford without hassle, as the other two were having breakfast. I packed up myself as best I could and started cleaning procedures in the warden's cottage, as this was my last day of active service.
Low to the west
Low to the east
Low across the lake
Lowest yet
Before long a single person approached along the trail, and as expected this was Anna returning for the switch. We talked for a good while outside, and also as expected she had had a very wet tour. After the others had left Anna went inside the only partially finished warden's cottage to dry and warm up, while I cleaned the guest cottage. The clouds remained low and drops fell from the mists from time to time, but conditions appeared slightly better inwards. I completed the economic report and then sat down for lunch inside together with Anna.
Since we were both inside the warden's cottage we started the exchange indoors, looking into nooks and crannies and such, and in a window of no precipitation I moved my stuff over to the guest cottage. Next up was a more thorough clean of the warden's cottage while Anna went around the premises peeking into the other buildings, after which we went through various things outside in a light rain. When that was done I was officially a civilian again, and sat down in the guest cottage for afternoon tea.
I then went to cut some firewood since the stores inside the guest cottage had not been replenished, and while I was doing so three adults with two small children suddenly showed up, asking to be let in to get the little ones warm and dry. Even though I was no longer the master of the place I suggested that they make a fire in the smaller room for the time being, while I turned to my packing in the larger one as the rain fell heavily outside. I then walked over to Anna's to hand over a list of notes as well as alert her to the current situation, and as I did so I also observed a total of six people coming down the Låktatjåkka path. In the end these six, five of whom were adolescents, took up position in the opposite corner of the larger guest room, which took some doing with all the wet gear, and once they had settled down to a card game I took the opportunity to prepare dinner and dessert.
Then another five people were coming down from Abiskojaure in somewhat improved weather conditions, and after some trouble with the marble quarry brook they came down to the ford with Anna and myself pointing out the best way. The people in the other room, now being warm and dry, began moving out and took up camping position among the nearest hills, and the new quintet moved in instead. I finished my packing and went over with a return box to Anna, and then prepared for the hike the next day. It was a genial evening inside, which came to a common end at 22, while the rain aided by a chilly wind made things gloomy outside.