Monday 11/9

I slept fairly well and got up as early as 06:10 – the forecast spoke of rain in the afternoon, so I wanted to have reached Goldahytta by then if possible. It was still 6°C outside, and I went out just to see the sun rise over the eastern rise, where it immediately passed into a veil. I packed up and had breakfast with the last of the cloudberry jam, and now the others were rising as well on the other side of the wall.

Bye!

I cleaned my room and did the dishes, and by this time the clouds covered most of the sky, but visibility was mostly unhampered. It was also still and quite comfortable outside, so if the conditions held it looked to be a pleasant hike. My work proceeded according to plan, and I did one last round in the upper buildings to ascertain that everything was in order for the prolonged period of non-occupation to come. Back down the three bikers left, heading, well, back down, and they had left their room in such a good state that I didn't need to touch it up. Having packed the last things and shut off the electrical system I put on my damaged boots and left Pältsa behind just before 09:15.

I walked the trail with the wind in my back, stopping often to photograph the flaming colors all around. This time I followed the ATV tracks every time they split off from the footpath for variety. There were some weak glimpses of the sun, but the clouds still held sway as I reached Čearpmatjohka, which I was surprised to find full of water. Crossing was easy with the help of rocks, however, and just as I was making my way up onto the ridge a couple of hikers came down from it.

I wonder which way

Not to live in anymore

Nor this

Shifted

Palette

Hues

Nuances

Almost out of sight

Bealčánjohka turn

Another dip

Peaks rising

Dry

Cloudy still

Earthy

Gravel

Ridge ahead

Look, water!

The sun was peeking out more and more as I walked atop the ridge, eventually breaking off across the eastern slope at the same spot where I had gone the other way five weeks earlier. In fact, my route down to the meandering stream was almost identical to that time, just in reverse; only the last tens of meters differed. Another difference was that said stream now actually held water, so I couldn't just step into it as before. After some looking around I found a spot where I could just bridge the gap in one great stride, with the help of a rock and a vaulting action with the walking stick.

Still water here too

But also here, now

Sun comes

Not going that way...

...but rather this way

Now more of an obstacle

I followed natural openings for the most part through the subsequent dense bushes, eventually emerging onto the open plateau. This I followed upwards at an angle, going all the way up to the steeper cliffs of the valley wall proper to get around all the crisscrossing ravines intersecting my route, scaring up some ptarmigans along the way. I passed through a shallower hollow with a rivulet in it, having to negotiate a short but very steep slope on the far side with the help of a reindeer path. Another smaller hollow followed, and then came a somewhat moist area before I reached the forest.

Bushes and Gáhppoaivi

Dark Bárrás

Those ravines

Nearing Gáhpporuovddáš

Bealčán and ravines

Ravines without Bealčán

Higher up

At the edge of the trees

The trees were sparse enough that I decided to continue straight ahead rather than trying to go around them, and at first it was dry and nicely autumnal. The ground then turned more boggy, but it was no problem and I made good progress. The sun was now again taking to hiding behind the clouds, which were growing in extent. I passed the stream easily on rocks and soon more and more of the Norwegian side came into view, with a stunning display of color. I maintained my altitude and then increased it as I neared the northern exit of the valley, passing over stony ground with a wetter patch along the way.

The not very dense forest...

...offering good views

Open ground

Last(?) look back

Looking ahead

Further along

Exiting Gáhpporuovddáš

I turned around the corner higher up the slope than last time, which spared me the worst of the mires. I aimed to for eye-catching rise of Valljihat, walking on mostly easily trodden ground in a light wind and almost complete lack of direct sunlight. There were a number of people down on the trail, going in both directions, but I was the only one off it. As I was growing quite hungry I stopped at a partially hidden brook after 12:15, sitting down on a suitable rock to have lunch.

Stony

Márkos-Malla

Yes, please

Valljihat getting closer

Even with the lack of sun the wind was weak enough that I didn't feel the need for a jacket while I was immobile. Before leaving I went upstream a little bit to where the brook was visible to refill my flask, and then turned my receivers back on as I was now back in mobile reception territory, and was immediately deluged with various contact attempts. On the move again the rucksack felt better, being one thermos and one hefty sandwich lighter, and I maintained my previous heading. After passing a couple of somewhat larger (and entirely superterranean) brooks I turned down towards the trail before going across a mostly dry mire at an angle.

The almost-brook

Closeup

Flat

I reached the trail just at an ATV track junction and then almost immediately passed (and spoke briefly with) the Finnish girl from the penultimate night in Pältsa. I passed another two people at the nearby bridge and covered the remaining distance to the start of the slope in short fashion. The path going down this slope was mostly good, in the sense that the physical exertion wasn't particularly great, and with every step the autumn colors before my eyes grew in extent and intensity – it was quite spectacular. Two people were sitting beside the trail enjoying the view, and down in the pretty forest I met a group of seven going up.

Back on track

Stream crossing

Markers

On the crest

Golddajávri in full splendor

Saana in the distance

Wide valley

Nearing the forest

Ah, those colors

Not to mention these

Or these

Sparse again

This time around there was water in the outflow from Golddajávri, shortly after which I met two people with a dog, and far off to the east I could discern The Cairn. The plain was also wetter now, but most of the more inundated areas had duckboards. I encountered more ptarmigans which flew up from their hiding places, and then met a group of four without packs. As expected I didn't see the cottages in among the trees until I was almost upon them, which occurred before the time was approaching 14:30.

More water

Lake

Breidalen

Line

Liquid

Crown

Almost up...

...at Goldahytta...

...in among the trees

An older man was entering the older cottage, where I again had my reservation – and upon entering it myself I noted that the gas note I had written was still present, even though I had seen that its online counterpart which had appeared shortly after the event had since been removed. The other man was a Norwegian who had taken up residence in the common room bunk bed, and two of the beds in the sleeping compartment were occupied. I went down to the stream to have a wash and then sat down for afternoon tea inside, speaking some with the Norwegian.

Before long one of the other two came back in the form of a Norwegian woman of similar age, later followed by another, and all three turned out to be ptarmigan hunters. They were therefore quite interested to hear that I had encountered a multitude of the birds in question during the day, especially the ones down on the nearby plain, to the point where one of them went out again to see if she could lure them. A couple of Finns then looked inside to see if there was room, as they had no reservation, but eventually they went into the newer cottage instead.

Outside there was more wind but still no rain, so I went for a little photo round. The sky was covered in a thick veil behind which the circle of the sun could be seen, and further off to the southeast there appeared to be a haze. The loose sole was again indeed coming loose at the back, but not too badly, so I put on some more tape. I spent some time doing sudoku and speaking with the man, and now the rain haze was finally moving in, albeit just lightly. I then had dinner and read in the guestbook, while the rain moved past the drizzle stage.

Rain afoot

As it was getting quite chilly the others put a fire in the heater, and then one of them started preparing their own dinner – apparently they had one day each, and the ambition level was high. I spoke with the other two while this was going on, and then solved a crossword in the fading light while they ate. After some quiet time alone I went to have an evening snack and ended up in a long conversation with the trio, in a common room that was now quite warm. Outside the rain was still going on, but it wasn't very heavy so I didn't need any specialized gear just to go out. Then all of us went to bed around 22, and at least my bunk was comfortably cool.