Tours › 2007 › Sĺmmarlappa › Day 2: I

Tuesday 14/8 – part one

Stage map 2-1

Tarrekaise – Sĺmmarlappa

Horizontal distance:11.5 km
Vertical distance:(negligible)
Time:3 h 15 min
Lunch break:(none)
Night accommodation:
Stage classification:Easy
Map points:Tarrekaise, Sĺmmarlappa

I slept really well, even though I had to go outside in the middle of the night for osmotic reasons, at which time it was raining hard but it was also rather warm. In the morning the clouds were even lower than before and everything was of course very wet, but the light was strong and on the other side of Darrávrre the sun penetrated the smoke screen in a few places; the rainfall had also ceased and it was windless, so I expected another day of mildly stifling warmth. During breakfast I could perceive a slow gradual attenuation in the cloud layer, and while I was packing the Darregájsse massif emerged – a clear sky could be seen directly above, but on the other side of the lake the clouds persisted. I went down to the wardens' cottage to say good-bye, and found that only Ove was present; Berit had made good on her "threat" the other day to visit Vaimok. Feeling refreshed and uplifted by the now nice weather, I set out on the second stage of the walk around 09:30.

Tarrekaise cottages 2
Low ceiling in the morning
Darrávrre 1
Undisturbed Darrávrre
Tarrekaise cottages 3
The clouds lifting...
Tarrekaise cottages 4
Tarrekaise cottages 5
...the cottages

Since the sun had now come out and it was clearing all around I walked in light attire, but even so it was warm, especially with the lack of wind. Something else which was again lacking was any substantial dampness in the undergrowth, despite the nightly rain, but on the other hand the duckboards were slippery in the extreme, and I nearly fell over several times. The stones making up a short rock portion also gave some trouble in this regard, and it was rather muddy in some places. The day was growing more beautiful all the time, and around the Vaimok trail split the terrain changed to a type more suitable for effortless walking. I had felt some early signs of problems in the Achilles tendon early on, but they had vanished altogether after a while and showed no indication of returning.

Having reached the wide and stony course of the stream from the impressive cleft Bádurgĺrssĺ I took out my binoculars and surveyed the visible sides of this formation – I had learnt in Tarrekaise that tourists had encountered bears every other day on the Sĺmmarlappa–Tarrekaise stage during the early season, and that the animals had some type of abode up there. I did not see anything out of the ordinary, though, and neither had I seen any signs of any wildlife along the trail – apparently the bears, at least, had eventually figured out that there would be people about for quite some time, and had since stayed away intentionally. As for the stream itself, it was far from impressive – while there are several large rock fields which mark where it bursts forth in spring, the one course that currently carried water was of the usual "splash across" level.

After this the sun was swallowed by cloud, which suited me fine. What followed then was a woodland of open – and dry – character, often offering very good views of Tarradalen in most directions. A bit later the vegetation turned more leafy and dense and there the undergrowth did convey a fair degree of cool moisture to my legs, which however felt good if anything in the still and warm air. I then passed into a region of meadows, followed by dry and open heathland with only a few patches of trees interspersed along the course of the trail, and there the ground was stonier as well. I passed through a short section of small hills as the clouds grew in number, now feeling an ache in my left shoulder; apparently the pack was not properly balanced. Clouds kept amassing, especially in my direction of travel, but so far the only rain I saw was a shower over the massifs to the northwest.

I met two other hikers, and shortly thereafter what I assumed was a family of four, and then the terrain became wetter and more open for a while before changing back into dense woodland. In this region the path was very good and I walked with great ease, but presently I felt some light drops falling from above. Soon a light drizzle was in progress, but I felt no need for protection yet, not even during a few bursts of drizzle not bearing the classification of "light", and when the trail drew near to Darrhaädno the precipitation stopped. I then passed through a rock field which was rather cumbersome, and there I also met a couple going in the opposite direction with whom I had a short conversation. After this the path was back to excellent and just as I was beginning to wonder if I shouldn't have reached my destination by now it made a sharp turn to the left, and then approached the Sĺmmarlappa cottage from behind.

Ántilĺpttĺ 1
Gurávágge 1
Emergent Gurávágge
Mĺskásjgájsse 1
Pointed Mĺskásjgájsse
Stájggá 1
Darregájsse 1
Darregájsse ridding itself of cloud
Trail 6
Gurátjĺhkkĺ 1
Tarradalen 2
Tarradalen to the north
Mĺskásjgájsse 2
Beneath Mĺskásjgájsse
Darregájsse 2
More of Darregájsse...
Tarradalen 3
...and of Tarradalen
Panorama 1
Mini-panorama over lower Tarradalen
Rivggotjĺhkkĺ & Rivggonjunnje 1
Rivggotjĺhkkĺ and Rivggonjunnje
Tarradalen 4
Going up Tarradalen
Rain 1
Rain over Vuoksák
Cleft 1
A cleft in the eastern wall
Frog 1
Vuoksákvahta 1
Darrhaädno 7
Going beside...
Darrhaädno 8
Cave 1
The Sĺmmarlappa cave
Panorama 2
Panorama of the view from the cottage


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