Wednesday 21/4

I followed Visttasjohka downstream, taking the narrower channel to the left shortly after leaving the cottages, where I saw the tracks of the group leading up towards the hanging ice. Soon I returned to the main track on the main course, which consisted of both ice and snow in shifting mixtures. A few sections were close to collapsing, and at other places where the track left the stream the ground was bare, but as of yet there was no danger, what with the cold nights. It was fairly warm but there was also a light wind to compensate for it.

When the track went up onto the northern bank past the mouth of Unna Reaiddávággi I stayed on the stream, since there was very little snow on that side, but after a bit, when conditions improved slightly, I went up too, soon taking to skiing close to the trees so as to avoid the bare areas as best I could. Eventually I left the track altogether, bursting my way through the trees until I found an open route which was probably (or at some point had been) the summer trail. The snow carried beautifully, and I continued to find natural ways until I reached the lower bridge, where it was clear that at least the last bit I had not been following the current summer trail.

Ice curtain

Open water

Northwestern peaks

Down the valley

White-crested Vássačorru

Scant snow

About to pass Unna Reaiddávággi

The signpost at the bridge

The southern veils were starting to back away, and everything was nice and fair. I mostly followed the summer trail from there, holding a lower course when the terrain (and the snow upon it) so mandated, and it was fully apparent that a large group of reindeer had done the same not too long ago. I then followed an old snowmobile track across an icy mire, after which I started going more upwards, crossing several small arms of the stream from Vássaloamijávri. Suddely I caught sight of the Vássajohka bridge, which surprised me seeing as how it is one of those bridges that are removed before winter, but moments later the explanation was revealed: it had indeed been removed from its foundations, and was now sitting on the ground beside the hut that was my goal. I reached the steep brink of Vássajohka and followed it upwards to the summer trail markings, where I took off the skis and walked down the slope to the stream. There I left them and crossed the ice on foot, climbing up the opposing slope to the hut at 11:30.

White-throated dipper under...

...the Visttasjohka bridge

Spotting the hut and the retracted Vássajohka bridge

The weather was now very fair, even though some light wads of cloud were starting to gather at the peaks, and Govggečorru had a large cap upon it. Taking a closer look at Njunni I did not particularly like what I saw, so I was rather content with not having tried for Gaskkasvággi. I walked around a bit on the mostly bare (and dry!) ground, and suddenly I heard a sound close by – which turned out to come from a group of reindeer that were approaching, but before long they headed back up the slope. Myself, I entered the hut, which was in quite good shape, with only a few minor gaps in the walls, but the heater (not to mention chimney pipe) was so heavily corroded that I would not want to make a fire in it (there were both saw and axe there, though). The interior of the hut was considerably cooler than the outside, where it was nice and warm, so I sat down against a rock in the sunlight to have lunch.

At the hut

Reaiddáčohkka dividing Unna and Stuor Reaiddávággi

Unna Reaiddávággi by itself

Lower Visttasvággi

Another perspective on the hut

Visiting reindeer

Looking in

Inside

Looking out

Zoomed in on Kugghjulskammen

Awoken butterfly

In the immediate vicinity of the hut several good campsites were showing, and it looked as though there was a larger open area a bit further down, so after eating and relaxing I walked down the path to check it out. I found a nice grassy meadow that bestowed a strong feeling of summer, but it was too uneven for comfort; there were some campsites around by a fireplace off to one side, though. Up in the sky the wads were growing and so was the Govggečorru cap, and after enjoying the tranquility of the place some more I walked back down to where my skis were.

I followed Vássajohka downstream, almost at once coming onto a couple of old snowmobile tracks, choosing the righthand course down to Visttasjohka. The larger stream was partially open, but I could get across on the one remaining ice bridge, which did not look like it would last much longer. I proceeded to the main track upon the southern bank, joining it just before the icy mires and pools east of the bridge. Here there were more bare areas, but in many cases I could ski around them. Behind me clouds were claiming Duopmačohkka, and I was starting to feel warm again.

When I was approaching the bridge I returned to Visttasjohka to pick up a shovel that I had seen from the other side, immediately underneath the span. As it turned out, it was entirely possible to continue under the bridge – but only on skis, not by snowmobile. After that I passed a number of sections that were soon about to break down, but in each case I could see a way to get around it – but, again, only on skis.

When I came to the next stretch of bare ground opposite Unna Reaiddávággi I kept to the westernmost course of the stream, which after the first slightly tricky bit was a very good route, and I really enjoyed this bit of spring skiing at its best. There was also a bit of pleasant wind, and then I came back to my own tracks from the morning. As I was passing Reaiddáčohkka the sun slipped back and forth into and out of clouds, and again I chose the western course when alternatives presented themselves. The last bit I skied on the track, arriving at an empty cottage site at 14:30.

Upon Vássajohka

Spring-like feeling down at Visttasjohka

Skiing just possible

The ice weakening

Those peaks

Pure ice

Sharp Nállu

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