Thursday 12/3

My good ol' tracks made ascending through the forest an easy task, and some initial warmth was soon replaced by a light wind. Some very dense clouds had started amassing around the peaks to the southwest, but other than that it was fair. I proceeded up towards a large cloven rock close to which I came upon a snowmobile track, but I soon left it and headed more straight up the slope. It was a great day for skiing, with perfect snow, weather and views, and obviously I was not the only one who thought so – looking west I spotted a couple of specks moving up Måskoktjåhkkå with a track extending northeastwards behind them.

A bit later I observed something which I guessed was the camp that they had started from, and I also observed the Belgian man just clearing the forest out on Kungsleden. As I climbed to the summit of Doaresoajvve the sun passed into a large but thin cloud, and up there there was a fair bit of wind. I went on to the highest point marked by a large cairn a bit further ahead, where I took a short break.

Snowy valley

Snowy branches

So fair

Rock without roll

Heading for Skierffe, are we?

Southeast

Gábllá beyond the lakes

At the summit of Doaresoajvve

Upper Tjahkkelij

Northeast

Jågåsjgaskaláhko

Måskostjåhkkå to the north

Other fjelds further away

Mártevárásj

Clouds coming

Sijddojávrre

Without climbing skins I then set off down the gentle northwestern slope, gliding effortlessly for several hundred meters. The wind was still appreciable, however, so I changed into the thicker cap before continuing in the direction of Válak. Off to my left there was quite a bit of clouds moving around the peaks, and more were on their way from the previously spotted southwestern reserve; off to the northwest things were still good, though. I came to the ravine of Ábbmojåhkå and went down a little ways, but I soon felt that snow conditions in conjunction with the increased incline were getting unsafe, so I turned sharply to the left, cutting across the slope to where the slant was gentler – and as I did so the sun was clouded for real.

Once I started downhill again I found things excellent for telemarking, and I had a good run down to the bottom of the ravine. There was an animal track leading across, but I could not follow it since the slope on the other side was too steep for comfort, so I skied a bit upstream on the frozen stream, where I also found a set of frozen ski tracks. Down there it was sunny again and mostly calm, but after I had climbed out of the ravine the wind came back, even though it was still of no concern. I went up onto the nearby rise, on top of which I found a reindeer enclosure – and also a fresh set of wolverine tracks. As I passed the fence the clouds behind me grew more ominous, and now there were also forming new ones to the north. I skied over to a rock and looked things over, after a while continuing to the start of a smaller ravine where I found another rock to use as shelter, sitting down shortly before 11:30.

More of Jågåsjgaskaláhko

Ábbmojåhkå up

Ábbmojåhkå down

Suorkisjnjurttje

Mmm, skiing

Fascinating shades

At the enclosure

Mártevárásj visible again

More clouds

At the next ravine

Just then the sun disappeared completely, and off to the west there was no visibility at all. The spot was not too sheltered, but I could have my lunch in moderate peace. The wind was clearly on the increase, and the clouds behind my back were not only getting thicker and lower, but they were also spreading across portions of the sky thitherto not covered. Snow drift was now visible, and there were several hefty gales, so before setting out again I put on another shirt.

My tracks had already been erased to a large degree, and now it was cloudy everywhere save for the far north. As I started off in the direction of Tjålle there was a bit of sun, but it soon went away again; the western clouds split apart for a few seconds and then pulled shut. The wind seemed to be somewhat lighter, however, and with all the plain of Jågåsjgaskaláhko ahead of and around me I actually felt rather good. I continued to a crest where rocks had been brought to the fore by the wind, and then went down into the little ravine behind it. There I turned back, following its course until I reached its abrupt upper end.

I was now heading southwards, and I adjusted my course towards Slieŋgetjåhkkå which could still be seen. Something else which could be seen was a sizeable patch of light curiously centered upon the reindeer-watching hut between Bassoajvve and Ábbmojåhkå, and it did not seem to be going anywhere. Despite the wind it was actually pretty comfortable still, and the snow was good; while there was a lot of white all around visibility at ground level extended several kilometers, and ahead of me the horizon was also free. I crossed the uppermost reaches of the Ábbmojåhkå ravine, suddenly coming to another, smaller one, and with the lack of contrast I had a hard time judging the state of the edge, so I took a safer roundabout route.

Skiing across...

...the cloud-bordered...

...high plain

Some light getting through

Lowlands

Bassoajvve

More light...

...at the reindeer-watching hut

I was now about to enter the patch of light, which had been varying a bit in size but not position, but just then it faded away. I crossed the Sarek border some distance above the hut and then proceeded mostly parallel to it. Visibility had deteriorated in all directions, and even the faint "glow" that had marked the horizon ahead of me soon merged into the background. Suddenly a snowmobile appeared in the haze, and I realized that this was what I had seen earlier, and not a tent camp.

Soon after passing it by I heard sounds from what at the moment seemed like thin air off to my right, but what was in reality the eastern slope of Måskoktjåhkkå hidden in mist, and soon enough the two would-be Skierffe visitors emerged as they headed towards the snowmobile. Lájtávrre was now coming into view below the clouds, and upon it was an eerie but warm sheen. As I proceeded towards Aktsegállo I spotted the returning dogsleds out on the lake, and when they reached the northern shore they turned into the delta. There were clouds everywhere but since I was now below the base again visibility was good in all directions, and there was very little wind left.

From Aktsegállo I followed a snowmobile track for a bit and then turned down through the sparse upper forest, passing a good deal of old telemark tracks of mine. With some minor difficulty I brought myself out onto my upwards tracks, following these down to where the summer trail turns – and here I continued straight ahead along another cleared path between the spruces which I had wanted to check out. This was wide enough to allow for simple turns, and before long I came out at Kjell's cabin. It had started to snow as I rounded the residential buildings and came up to my own after 14:45.

Skirting the border

The delta appearing...

...like the rest of Lájtávrre

Aktsegállo

« Return to Aktse report