Monday 25/4

I slept well until 06:30, when I arose briefly to see if there was any photogenic dawn light upon the peaks, but the sky was covered in thin layers of cloud, so there was nothing to speak of. I also noted that the temperature was already 4°C, so there would be no hard crust this day. I got up around 07:15 next time and started packing at once before having breakfast. The dining room was almost empty at first, but when the for-a-price breakfast buffet was being laid out more people sauntered in. There were still high clouds hiding the sun for the most part, but some lit patches could be seen here and there. I finished packing and cleaned my room, and then listened in on a conversation including a guy who had just come up from Storulvån, so I had absolutely fresh route info. The air was still as I put on my skis, but I still wore the cap against the drag that would arise from the initial descent. Three Norwegians were also preparing to leave, and I skied out just ahead of them around 08:45.

Panorama over Sylarna in the weak morning light

Subtle Easter decorations

The snow was not as soft as feared, and the lack of contrast due to the lack of direct sunlight had me tensed up as I glided downwards, almost running over a lemming which refused to give ground – as is their wont. At the Gamla Sylen shelter the trail branching off to Gåsen was completely bare, but I spotted three people walking upon it, carrying their skis. Myself, I followed the main track a little ways and then broke off to the right upon a set of snowmobile tracks lined with temporary sticks.

As I had now descended most of the slope I removed the cap, for it was still and warm despite the sun's absence. I skied straight down to Enan, seeing a good number of people going diagonally up the slope on the other side, coming from the right. I could see that the stream was open, which I had known since even before starting the tour, but it looked like there might be a passage directly along my line of travel. This turned out not to be the case; a narrow but impassable canal lay hidden in the terrain, and I skied upstream to where those other people had reached a passage that still held. An appreciable headwind had now come into existence, but it was not cold enought for me to dig out the cap again.

Summer entrance

More people leaving

Gamla Sylen

By the power line

No passage here

Light seeping through

After crossing Enan I followed the tracks upwards, soon passing the trio, mostly keeping to the tracks which did not quite touch the actual trail. At times I rounded areas of bare ground and/or sizeable puddles, but here the crust was better. It was now still again and very warm, and I switched to a thinner set of gloves. Looking at the sky I thought that it seemed a bit lighter above and to the west, but there was still no sun. I passed a small brook on snow and aimed for Spåjme, but was thwarted by that same brook after a turn; the open canal was a bit too wide to pass, and going a short bit downstream I saw no signs of improvement, so I skied back, took another snow passage, and then skied around a larger wet area, passing the shelter by at a distance. Further west I saw a number of people holding to a higher route on V Endalshöjden; I had considered doing the same, but I was unsure of just how far off I would need to travel in order to pass the nearby region of pool and streams. I also saw a lone fellow further to the east, but that looked like a poorer choice what with the scant snow in that direction.

Passed

Circumvented

Light on Helags

On the trail

The Spåjme shelter across...

...another open stream

Rounding it instead

Before long I found myself at another water barrier, but this time I found an on-its-last-legs passage at a bend a bit upstream; it involved going out onto an overhanging snowbridge and then taking a step (with skis on) down into some low shrubs, but it worked nicely. After returning to the other tracks I met a couple of skiers going upwards, and we related our respective experiences regarding the route in either direction. I went through this procedure with another family moments later, skiing along the main track which was now following the trail markers. It had grown even warmer, and above the clouds were definitely starting to break up, and as I started going down towards Lill-Ulvån the sun finally broke through in short, weak bursts.

I had been told that one needed to utilize the suspension bridge on the summer trail, so when I approached some large bare patches I broke off the winter trail and glided under the power line, soon standing at the brink of the larger stream. It was indeed open, but it looked traversable just a short bit upstream, and I managed to cross it safely just as the sun came out in full. Higher up the slope of Stor-Ulvåfjället I had observed three dogsleds coming from the west, and further behind in their tracks a group of skiers were approaching. I went up to a bare crest with some trees, just above which the dogsleds had stopped for a break, and now I saw that they were themselves following a broad snowcat track. I felt like it would be a good time to break too, and sat down against a rock with the grand southerly vista before my eyes after 11:15.

Easter again

Snow holds

Lighter

Passed Lill-Ulvån here

At first I just sat still enjoying the warmth, looking at all the people going in both directions over at the bridge/trail. Soon the dogsleds went on, and another five people passed by on the snowcat track. As I ate the clouds pulled shut again, but it was still nice, and the sun wasn't gone entirely. More people were on the way up, and two came down the track as well. When I set out again the sun shone anew, and I chose not to wear the jacket. I was soon overtaken by two people with a dog each, and rather than sticking to the track I turned upwards, not turning down until I hit some bands of bare ground inviting this decision. I came to the point where the summer trail to Blåhammaren branches off and then followed the power line until the trees parted so that I could return to open ground – and the winter trail. Stor-Ulvån was now all moving water, so I took to the bridge, coming up to the station at 13:00.

Fairer

Departing dogsleds

People at the bridge

Clearer skies

Getryggen in full view

Back!

There were some people about but not nearly as much as at the start. I dumped my rucksack inside and filled up my water bottle, and then set off up Getryggen, aiming to get a good run as there was still plenty of time before the bus was to leave. I followed the main track, meeting quite a few people coming down, with varying success; they were all obviously returning from tours not necessarily involving high slopes. I turned right around a steeper hill, and was soon passed by a trio of guys with light randonnée equipment. I followed in their tracks, veereing left again, and the snow was very soft here – which was a good thing, since the entire eastern face of the mountain was one large display of tracks upon tracks, and with such a soft surface they would not hinder me on the way down.

I went up towards the southern "corner" of the slope, and after reaching the first bare patch I made my own tracks back up to the north, and as I was nearing the crest of the first incline I saw more people on the actual summit further up. I had no plans on going that far, however, so I rounded another bare area and then skied back a bit to get a better fall line. As the higher-ups started their descent I began mine, and after the first shaky turns hit a very nice telemark stride, as it were. This time I had an audience further down the slope, and I hope that I gave them a good show. Towards the end of the run I felt some strain in my legs, but still managed to get quite a few good turns in the forest as well.

Up I go

Sylarna far off

The vale of Handölan

Getryggen summit

Ånnsjön

End!

This whole extra excursion had taken one hour, and though it was very rewarding it had come at the usual cost: soaked feet. I removed the garments involved and then sat down on the loft above the restaurant to relax a bit, after which I readied my skis for transport and checked out the store. After that I went down to the guest kitchen and made myself an extra lunch, since I would not get home until evening. That done I saw to my pack and then went outside to wait for the bus, looking at Sylarna in the heavy distance haze one last time.