Thursday 14/6 – Friday 22/6

Thursday 14/6

I saw two more (or the same) hares during the night, and in the morning there were no less than four sitting in the yard. Said morning was wonderful and entirely still, with birds chirping in the trees and elks grazing in the delta. As a consequence I delayed the start of the work I had to do for as long as possible, just enjoying the great outdoors.

The upper guest cottage required fairly little in the way of such work, and the gas system checked out as well, so it soon stood ready to receive visitors. The lower one, however, was in worse condition; from what I could surmise it had probably been rented out to a private group sometime after the official end of the winter season, and this group had not fulfilled their obligations. After that I cleaned the off-season room in the storage building – which was much better kept – and then opened the rest of the shutters. I also switched the broken gas hose, using the last nozzle-fitted spare, and put up some signs and notices here and there. Then it was time for the traditional omelette, which I ate outside.

Clear

Neighbor

Sáŋarčohkka white

More neighbors

Old huts down by the lake

Stuor Avrrik

The Kaitumjaure monster

Soon the sun passed into a large, thick veil and a wind picked up, so I got up and went on my business. I started by calling the police on the assistance phone to a) verify its function b) announce my arrival/presence, and then set about shovelling the path to the water brook – an odd task for a summer period, but there you go. The drift in question was rather deep, and it took me a while, towards the end of which some light drops started falling. When I was done I walked along the path as it continued on the other side of the stream to see where it went, and come down to the open heath with a number of old huts down by the lake which I had observed with interest from above.

Back up at the cottages I programmed the cash register with current prices and ascertained that it worked as it should, and then started going through the shop. To my dismay I found that the previous wardens had followed the to my mind idiotic practice of putting a price tag on every single item, which is enormously frustrating when the price changes between seasons – which it often does. Grrr. I also found some outright errors, and set about establishing a consistent marking system.

Passable

Non-pristine

Rainfall

I kept at it until dinner, after which it was time for more football. Outside it was raining lightly, but the clouds were high enough that visibility was largely unchanged. During the half-time break I went to fire up the sauna, and then listened to the second half while I finished up sorting through documents. Immediately upon completion of the game I went out to the sauna, finding it OK but in need of more power, so I stuffed it with wood and worked the fire.

The rainfall had increased and the clouds were lower now, which made for a nice contrast with the heat of the little chamber, and I made several visits to the hollowed-out "tub" in the stream immediately outside the door. Towards the end of the session the temperature was good indeed, so obviously it takes a bit of time to reach its full potential. As I stood outside in the deceptively warm rain I noted that the buds on the trees were in the process of bursting – a very recent development, and a very welcome one. No one had come during my absence, so I did little more before turning in at 22:45, while the rain splashed on.

Friday 15/6

I slept deeply, and just missed the morning weather forecast. It had obviously been a cold night, for the peaks were lightly powdered with fresh snow, and a chilly wind remained beneath the cloudy sky. After morning proper had passed I heard the sound of an approaching helicopter, and went out as I realized that it was setting down right behind the cottage. Out jumped a Nikkaluokta resident who said he had goods for me, so I helped unload the machine; there were various items for the shop there, some restocking an existing supply, some not. The fliers were soon on their way again, as they were to replace the summer-season bridge on the trail south of Teusajaure, this being the first day the cottages were officially open and all. This left the actual carrying-in of all the stuff to me, and it took a fair bit of time and effort.

Grazer

Powder on the heights

Restock

After a short walk checking the condition of the nearby paths I put batteries into the smoke detectors and then started ticking off what had just arrived with the chopper. Strangely enough several items seemed to be missing, but I soon realized that these exactly matched a pile that had been on the floor directly inside the door when I had arrived myself, so I dismissed it. I picked up the marking effort from the day before, also putting up some of the new stuff which did not already have places in the shelves. Towards lunch the clouds broke apart and the warming sun came out, but the cold wind was still in effect. I continued working in the shop, taking inventory and discovering even more errors, and then it was time for afternoon tea.

Just after I had placed some things out in the earth cellar to keep them cool a couple of Dutch came from the north. Being the first guests of the season, they were happy to find that the shop was indeed open; they only intended to restock before going on, and would otherwise be out of food. After they had left the clouds pulled together again, and the incessant wind had me switching the heater on again. After dinner there was more football on the radio, and the hares were back again (not on the football field, though). I did some more work in the shop, which was nearing readiness, after which it was time for another game, this one of national interest so I had some popcorn with it for good measure.

The weather forecast in the break had the dry presenter making a series of jaw-dropping puns referring to an ongoing bicycle competition down south, which had me laughing like crazy – the context of the most boring kind of broadcast there is combined with the aural equivalent of a perfect poker face made it impossible not to. The second half was exciting, but unfortunately for us in the wrong way. I stood outside for a while as the wind had died down completely, and then went to bed at 23:30.

Saturday 16/6

The morning came with semi-clear skies and weak wind, but since I felt tired I did not go up at once, but rather remained in bed since there were no guests to tend to. Or so I thought – but just after breakfast I caught sight of movement inside the upper cottage, and found a couple of people there. They had walked from Kebnekaise and arrived after midnight, which is why I hadn't noticed them. They were German, but the younger one spoke good Swedish (and, I found, I had also been in contact with him mail-wise beforehand).

As they busied themselves with their own breakfast I walked around looking for suitable campsites nearby, finding little – the best ones were down by the huts. Back inside I wrote a letter with some outstanding questions I had regarding the shop, plus a few more, and asked the others to bring it with them when they left, which would not occur for a while yet due to an imminent fishing attempt. As I finished up my tasks in the shop a helicopter landed in the outer parts of the delta, apparently unloading a kayak(!), and soon a tent was pitched.

Urttičohkka and Sáŋaroalgi

Upper

Lower

The sun was now out in full, and it was rather warm despite the wind, so I sat outside for a while. As the two men prepared to leave I dug out another path from another snowdrift, and then two others came from the south, but they only wanted to rest before going on. Myself, I sat down again and read in the large brick of a book I had sent up in advance, and then started baking bread as I was running out of the fresh variety. While the dough rose the inhabitant of the tent down in the delta (a German man) came up to say hi, after which it was time to heat the frying pan. After the usual battle with the smoke detector I had a nice pile of bread to let cool, and I read some more outside until a large cloud made me return inside.

After dinner and dessert the German man returned asking if I had a spare watch to sell, since he had managed to forget his own, but that I did not. Later in the evening I could see him down by the delta pools, trying his luck with the rod, but no one else came. Instead I started baking a chocolate cake, utilizing the gas oven which I had been under the impression beforehand was either nonexistent or nonfunctional, but it obviously worked just fine. The result was excellent, and outdoor conditions had improved again as well, even though there were quite a few (high) clouds when I went to bed at 22:30.

Reflective

Sunday 17/6

Nightly clouds

A dark, dense front was approaching from the southwest during the night, but the morning was lighter than expected, and also rather warm. I stayed in bed until 08:45 and then went out to enjoy the warm winds, and after the sun had passed into a new batch of clouds went to take down that stupid sign on the off-season room's door. As I did so the rain the forecasts had promised started falling in slight amounts, and it was just a matter of minutes before it hit in full force, with accompanying haze. The weather in the fjelds can and does shift quickly, and I've seen my fair share of swift reversals, but this ranks among the top ones. It was pouring down now, but the clouds were still high, so it was only the haze that impaired visibility.

All buildings

Rain strikes

After lunch they started sinking for real, however, and the haze deepened. Still I went down to the actual "refuse-shed" and looked through the sorting containers, as usual finding their order less than satisfactory. The greatest offense was a full sack of mixed crap, of which I could only save parts, and from the contents I assumed that this was also the work of the presumed private off-season group. Grumble!

Back up in my cottage I spotted people coming from the north, so I turned on the heater in the drying room and put on the kettle so that I could greet them in the door with warm lemonade, which was much appreciated. It was a trio of foreign guys not really adequately dressed for this kind of weather, so they were glad to have reached a place where they could dry themselves and their garments. Then another two people – Swedes this time – came from Teusajaure, after which four more came from the north. The latter were undecided whether to stay inside or not, but in the end resolved to pay the camping fee to gain access to the stoves and heaters, but spend the night in their tent.

Done!

The rain had dimished greatly, but the clouds were still low, and it didn't take long before they started dumping their load again, as fervently as ever before. As I rested after dinner I almost fell asleep, and outside the rain still constituted a veritable downpour. Down in the delta the "elk-grass" was completely drowned, and the haze was the densest yet. I listened to another football game, and after reporting the result (which would have the politically amusing consequence that Greece was to face Germany) to the three guys I hit the sack at 22:45.

Still pouring down

Monday 18/6

There was still a drizzle falling from low clouds in the morning, but it soon stopped and the sky started to clear from the west. Looking out over the delta in my binoculars I noted that the German's tent was gone, and I wondered how he had fared the day before on his way down the lake system. The trio intended to make use of the sudden outburst of nice weather and go for a shorter walk in the area, and then press on to Teusajaure in the afternoon. The campers were packing, and as they prepared to leave I sat out on the porch crafting a new, more appropriate sign for the door to the off-season room. The other two Swedes had already left so I was alone for a while before the trio returned.

They left shortly after lunch, and I sat outside for a good while sheltered from the wind; there were more clouds again, but it was still nice. Then I took to cleaning the windows in the service cottage (plus the off-season room), after which the clouds broke up over the lake. Later two people came from Singi, having taken a helicopter from Alesjaure to Sälka due to the large quantities of snow in the Tjäktja Pass, and now had a few extra days to put to use before heading for Kebnekaise.

I spent most of the evening talking to them, as they were my only guests, and then turned to my book and more football. The clouds receded once more, and it was almost entirely clear and still (save for a persistent cuckoo with no regard for the time of day, or night) as I went to sleep at the usual time.

Tuesday 19/6

Sáŋarčohkka in the night

The night was clear, but the morning presented itself with high bands of cloud dimming the sun. The recent rain had had a visible effect on the fragile green of the forest, which was good to see. After waving goodbye to my two overnight guests I set out on a fishing tour, eager to test the place's reputation for good conditions.

I left at 09:45, following the main trail to the winter connection route and then went down to the huts on the path there. After checking out the first of these I tried some casts in the innermost little bay, but only managed to catch the bottom. The largest of the three huts was in fairly good condition, and all around were many a great patch for tenting. On the far side of the heath the water was too shallow for comfort, so I went through surprisingly dense and wet birch forest and thickets to the other side of said water, further out in the delta, and tried some more casts. After several more encounters with the bottom I went on to the edge of the headland, where the German had camped, and found that his spot was very well chosen. On the next island out an elk was standing among the trees, but when it spotted me it lumbered off out of sight.

Out of the forest...

...down to the old...

...residential...

...and storage huts

Hut and Leaibečeabetčohkka

Delta from the valley floor

Hut and cottages

Delta in the other direction

The outflow of Čeakčajohka was swift indeed due to the recent addition of water, and fishing in it was a bit tricky due to the strong current combined with the fact that immediately beside it the water was very shallow. I proceeded upstream, casting into the current here and there, passing by a wooden frame for a wind shelter. At the first of the actual white water rapids there was the usual backwater, but I could entice no interest from the hypothetical fish in it.

The sun had been out of the veils on and off, but now it was being swallowed by a larger front approaching from the east, putting a limit on the warmth. The next backwater was a sizeable bay below a sizeable waterfall, but as this proved equally lifeless I went on to a cute little strip of beach, but since this was still in the middle of the rapids it offered little in the way of actual swimming possibilities, although cliffs did provide a bit of shelter for bathers. There were also a couple of nice campsites nearby, but at the moment they were a bit wet since the snow upon them had just melted.

After having my lunch there I fished some more from the nearby cliff, but soon headed back on the path leading over the long rise that runs along the stream. There were several extant snowfields in the way, but nothing major. I checked a couple of campsites on the next low rise, and also inspected the ones closer to the cottages, which I from then on annexed as their "official" ones. I followed a small path going past these down into the forest, passing another acceptable patch before coming out onto the "water path", which I then followed back home at 13.

At the outflow...

...of Čeakčajohka

Rapids

More rapids

Beach!

Rapids and lake

Flowers and lake

Flowers without lake

After ascertaining that the place was empty I went to the sauna for a (cold) wash, and realized later than necessary that I had forgotten to bring a towel, but I managed anyway. A Swedish-speaking German soon came from the north, having turned back in Sälka due to the snow, but he would be going on after a break. A Spaniard followed, and after a visit to the shop and some info he too went on, just as it started to rain lightly. This rain increased during the rest of the afternoon, coupled with low clouds, and in the evening it was fairly heavy. It decreased later on, but a gusty wind picked up instead. I listened to Sweden unexpectedly and, unfortunately, meaninglessly beat France in a great game and turned in immediately afterwards.

Wednesday 20/6

As I had no guests I had a drawn-out morning, listening to the (cold) wind. The clouds were still somewhat low, and there were a few drops in the air. I rummaged through all the drawers in the shop and storage, found some things I had thought missing, and set about sorting the stuff more logically. I busied myself with this and that, staying indoors as much as possible as it was rather chilly outside, and it had also started to rain for real again.

After a good improvised lunch I went out to search for a missing plastic cap for a soap dispenser on the privy's wall, and found it in short fashion – a blizzard had carried it off in winter, and by estimating wind direction and speed it was a fairly simple procedure. Back inside I solved some crosswords, read in my book and just rested, feeling tired, while the rain gradually decreased. The wind did not, however, and by the time I went to bed it was rather strong. This day was about as uneventful as they come.

Rain-heavy skies

Buds in the delta

The place

Thursday 21/6

I spent the morning in bed, listening to an incredibly pretentious book review on the snobbier-than-thou channel. By the time I got up it was partially clear, but large clouds were drifting everywhere, and the wind was still strong. After fetching some tools I set about reducing the height of the door between the shop and its storage, since motion in the ground had shifted the frame and made it impossible to close. Satisfied with the results I went out into the improving day; the wind had lessened but still came in considerable gusts.

In the early afternoon I decided to go out for a longer walk, and did so wearing the fleece jacket against the chilly wind. I crossed the heath behind the house and then had to walk over a series of small mires. A band of trees followed and then I came up onto a rise where it was much windier, so I put on the gloves I had in the pockets. I followed a reindeer path over to the next, larger rise, where there was an icy pool beside a nice patch of grass (which would probably be even nicer once it caught up with the time of the year).

Up on the adjacent crest the force of the wind was immense, and I had trouble remaining upright. Immediately below, however, it was back to just windy, and there I came onto a cairn-lined path I had espied from below. This led down to Kungsleden a few hundred meters north of the cottages, but rather than walking home directly I went to the beach, which now displayed more sand as the water levels continued to sink back. I walked upstream a bit, but since the terrain grew bushier and wetter I returned up to the trail, and this time I did follow it all the way, returning to an empty site just in time for afternoon tea.

Cloudberry-to-be

Livamčohkka

Cottages below

All of the lake

Up Čeakčavággi

Pools by the trail

More rapids...

...in Čeakčajohka

Lower parts

The wind was on the increase again, but the sun finally made its way out of all the drifting clouds. This had a great effect on the lake, which shone in beautiful shades of green. I spent most of the evening reading and fiddling with forms before it was time for the first quarter-final. The clouds were shrinking more and more, but were still in the process of drifting at a low level, and this state of affairs was largely unchanged when I hit the sack at 22:45.

Afternoon

Evening

Friday 22/6

The night and morning were also windy, but at least the clouds were less numerous and much higher. When the sun was out it was rather warm, and I decided to go for another fishing tour, leaving at 10:45.

This time I followed the trail southwards, turning off when I caught sight of Gáidumjohka between the trees. There was a light mist before both Urttičohkka and Sáŋaroalgi, and a few drops from that found their way over on the wind, but that was all. I walked through the forest to the stream, which was rather swift, and then made some casts down at the outflow, where the backwater on the other side of the current was within the reach of my abilities.

I then proceeded around the calm bay immediately below, casting here and there, and after crossing rather a deep brook by way of a little detour continued out to the next little headland. There there were quite a few bushes, so I went on back along the shore, soon reaching something I had seen from a distance on my last outing: a boat secured to a tree by the water. No oars, though. After some more casts in this shallow water I went up onto the nearby heath, where I was greeted by the sun, so I saw fit to sit down and have lunch at 12:15.

Gáidumjohka

Tool

Calm

Home

Urttičohkka over there

It was nice and all, but more clouds were on the way, and another mist was forming, which developed into a short shower just as I was about to leave. I went out to the huts and fished my way around, walking further out onto the main headland, where Čeakčajohka was much calmer than last time. I continued trying out all the backwaters as I proceeded upstream, staying longer at the larger bay, and then paid another visit to the beach, where the water was also much lower than before. Soon thereafter I started back along the path around 14:30, finding no fresh tracks in the remaining snow at the end, which was confirmed by the emptiness of the place.

A curious creature...

...and its companion

Better weather

Good campgrounds

Upstream

Mighty fall...

...creating a rainbow

Flat rocks

Lower water now

I sat on the porch when the sun was out, fairly protected from the wind, and watched an elk step across the outflow. Birds were chirping in the trees, and more could be seen on and around the yard. The whole thing was rather splendid, and I had long since decided to have my Midsummer dinner out in the open – alone, as it seemed. I crafted a starter meal out of what fresh items I had left – including a small can of pickled herring – and then took it easy for a while before digging into the main course (which was less special) down at the table beside the lower cottage.

Wader

More color

More sun

Calm waters

The evening just got nicer and nicer, and I sat still for quite a while, watching the forest shine in the sun. I walked about a little and then had the dessert I had prepared at the same table, with the lake, valley and delta before my eyes. I didn't go inside until the sun disappeared behind Sáŋarčohkka, when it got much chillier quickly. Another football game followed while the outside continued to cool, and it looked like it was going to be a cold night. I chased a hare for photographic reasons and then finally called it a night at 23:15.

Nice evening...

...with sun-tinted mountainsides

Hare at rest

Hare at speed