In the morning the sky was partially clear with high clouds and temperatures remained on the comfortable side. The boat to Kebnats was scheduled to leave at 08:00 and I was almost feeling a bit rushed in meeting this time, but in the end the departure was delayed for ten or so minutes anyway. Rebecca, the coordinator for STF's cottages in and around the world heritage Laponia, drove me and Anna-Lena (who was to take care of Pieskehaure) around to Kvikkjokk, where it was – finally – raining when we arrived.
After lunch at the Kvikkjokk fjeld station it was time for another boat, this one driven by BjŲrn with whom I have traveled on several occasions before – and as usual he recognized me. By then the rain had stopped and the clouds were lighter, so once at the trail start I did away with the jacket – and also decided that rain trousers wouldn't be worth it, even with the wet (and rather high) undergrowth. At 13:45 I was ready to leave, walking ahead of Anna-Lena who was still preparing for departure.
As expected it was a bit wet from the recent rainfall, but not wet enough that I particularly minded. Just before the twin suspension bridges over VŠllebšcken – the first of which looked brand new – there came another voluminous but brief shower, and I sought the shelter of a large tree while it passed (a clear advantage of walking in the forest). After the bridges the ground grew drier, allowing for the rain, and the forest took on a mossy character. There were some mosquitos about, but not nearly as many as this area can host under other circumstances; apparently the very warm summer thus far had done away with substantial parts of them.
I met two people with two dogs while ahead the clouds were breaking apart, even letting the sun get to the verge of breaking through a few times. Having passed a few mires which offered views of primarily the sharply cliff of GasskŠjvvo I was approaching the old settlement Bšcken, but nowadays the trail has been rerouted so as not to pass right next to the buildings, instead crossing NjunjesjŚhkŚ before any signs of settlement can be seen. This new trail stretch was not in very good condition and needs both more maintenance and, most importantly, more feet before it is on par with the old path.
Back on the main track the terrain grew leafier as I neared the next settlement Njunjes, where the trail does pass right next to the buildings, and the subsequent jungle-like portion was just as, well, jungle-like as I remembered. The last bit to the Njunjes cottage went by quickly, and I arrived shortly after 16:30 and was greeted by Ulla (the soon-to-be-relieved warden) and Klara (the soon-to-be warden, who had just finished a period in SŚmmarlappa and was now taking on a second one straight away).
Having fashioned a cooling pot (literally, as there were no buckets left) in the nearby stream for my fresh food I set about making dinner, towards the end of which Micke, the previous warden in Vaimok, arrived – he had needed to leave the place early and we had arranged to meet on the trail the next day, but as it turned out he had decided to walk all the way to Njunjes in one go and was now rather tired as a result. He was soon followed by Anna-Lena from the other direction, so it was a veritable warden meetup – especially since Peder from Tarrekaise also dropped in later. Outside it was mostly cloudy but with some patches of blue still, and it looked better to the east. After an evening snack it started to rain lightly, which was followed by thunder some time after I had gone to bed at 22.