Summary
Another August, another late local tour after waiting for the weather to break. This has happened often enough that it's kind of become a thing, so I've developed a way of making the most of such tours, taking the chance to explore new terrain and alternative routes in what is otherwise mostly familiar areas. Even though my original ideas further north would have been grander and wilder I am therefore still quite satisfied with how this tour turned out.
First and foremost, it was good to visit Helags again after so long – and to go there in summer for the first time. The summit ascent/bowl circuit was really something, and even though I have indeed been up there once before in winter the experience felt quite fresh, not least because the route was different. I will also attest that the feeling of grandeur and alpine exposure was greater now under summer conditions, with the sheer Wall as an ever-imposing presence. Terrific stuff – and a terrific day!
In fact, both Helags-centric days were terrific, with the high route from Ljungdalen very much a good choice – and one which included neither motorized transport nor paved roads. Granted, it was longer than the usual route from Kläppen, or from the Torkilstöten ski area, and the way up through the forest was a bit less than straightforward at times, but all in all I call it a success. The views towards the massif (and more) from Stortjärnen onwards were spectacular, given how open the landscape is in those parts, and the burgeoning autumn colors added an extra layer to all the beauty – not just there, but throughout the tour.
There is something else that needs to be addressed here, though, namely the sorry state of the Helags glacier. This remains Sweden's southernmost glacier, but like many other bodies of ice it has shrunk dramatically in recent times, so it is just barely hanging on – something which can be clearly seen in the photos from my circuit. How long will it last? As such, the experience, great as it was, was also tinged with worry.
The plain between Jalkedsåajja and Krustjärnstöten/Slaajve was another pleasant experience, with more autumnal scales, and the "Chinese Wall" between the Ljungan shelter and the southeastern end of Holkendurrie was of course an intriguing acquaintance as well. This was one of the bases I had wanted to cover with this tour, and while it did not disappoint I must say that the valley itself made an even greater impression, or at least very much added to it, with all its hills and pools – and more colors. While I had traveled through Holkendurrie once before, that was also in winter and I actually did not recall the long ridge from that stage, and the pools were of course not on display either then.
The subsequent campsite up the slope was indeed a good one, and the adjacent hilltop was a perfect vantage point, but my goal of having Sylarna in sight was only just met. Next time I find myself looking for a campsite in that area I'll aim a bit higher, where I now know of several even better options. The following day was, I think, the best of them all hiking-wise – at least discounting the wet section around the middle – with very pleasing terrain and perfect weather for walking, plus mysterious clouds to boot. That day also offered a multitude of different views, with the descent into Lill-Stensdalen as a high point (low point?). And, of course, ending the day with a hot sauna next to a cold stream was just perfect.
The final day was rather a wet one, obviously (literally so, as many of the pictures suffered from a wet lens), but I quite enjoyed it just the same. The feeling of autumn was strong in both the air and the land, something which was heightened by the mists. The forests of the Vålådalen basin are renowned for their special character, and I've always found it a joy to travel through them – and this time proved no different. Or, well, it was a bit different with the shifting rain, but as previously stated that only added to the experience since conditions were still quite good. And, I beat the beavers...
So, not too long a tour, but a very rewarding one which offered plenty of fresh sights and other stimuli despite going through more or less familiar terrain. There's always something new to discover, especially after having been away from an area for quite some time, or just by switching seasons. I'm just glad the weather finally decided to afford me the opportunity.