Tours › 2006 › Kvikkjokk Circuit › Day 13

Saturday 12/8

Stage map 13

VŠllevŠrre – Kvikkjokk

Horizontal distance:10 km
Vertical distance:+40 m, -560 m
Time:3 h 15 min
Lunch break:
Dinner:Reindeer pie
Night accommodation:Train
Stage classification:Easy
Map point:Kvikkjokk

The wind had died down again already during the early night, and it was calm and fair in the morning, with a few scattered whisps of cloud – one of which veiled the sun at the moment. I had slept well, and I arose rested at 07:00. The tent had almost dried during the night, and it was simply a very pleasant morning in every respect. When the sun came out it got warm quickly, and I took it easy making breakfast and packing up. I saw a pair of wanderers closer to the VŠllegŚrssŚ ravine, where they paused to change clothes – and from these clothes I assumed that they were the ones I had had lunch in close proximity to the day before. We saluted each other at a distance, and then they went on towards Kvikkjokk. As I left myself around 09:15, there were some more clouds to the west and north, and a light wind.

Panorama 16

Crossing VŠllevŠrre was just as easy as it appeared; the ground was very nice and even at first, and then there were a bit more stones. As I made my way to the center of the plateau I came upon another path, but also this one was broken into disjointed sections of varying quality. It was rather warm, so when the sun was blocked by a cloud I offered a quiet cheer. When the (very) gentle slope to the "summit" began, the path vanished, but there is a well-trodden trail which ends right at the reindeer fence on this summit, and I followed that from there. I saw some people atop Prinskullen further ahead, and after a stretch of walking the most interesting of which was the picking of a few ripe cloudberries, I reached the rocky hill myself.

Path 1
Look, a path!
Sarek 16
Southwestern Sarek
VŠllevŠgge 4
Looking back into VŠllevŠgge
Trail 1
Going down the trail
Panorama 17
Panorama over southern Sarek as seen from southern VŠllevŠrre
Sakkat 1
Sakkat coming into view
Fjelds 1
The east
Bird 2
Walking bird
Sakkat 2
Sakkat again
(Prinskullen to the left)

Up there I found the two guys who had gone ahead of me, and another two guys who had come up from Kvikkjokk. We talked for a bit amidst admiring the views – the "new" pair had a thing for a specific type of chocolate bar known as Kexchoklad, for they had brought 30 (!) of them. They were just setting out on a weeklong tour, while the others were returning like me. After a while we all departed, but I let the two who were going downwards get a head start so as not to walk on their heels.

Panorama 18
Panorama over Sakkat and beyond
Panorama 19
Panorama over southern Sarek, with BŚrdde and BoarektjŚhkkŚ as the central attraction
Fjelds 2
The western landscape opening up again
ńnok 1
ńnok north of Kvikkjokk
Bumblebee 1
A bumblebee that apparently...
Bumblebee 2
...had a thing for my hat

It was very warm, and entering the forest would have felt good for that reason alone, but it was also very nice to be surrounded by trees again. The slant was rather steep, so I took it easy, savoring the familiar smells of woodland about to prepare for the coming autumn. A bit down there was a rill at the side of the trail, where the trampled vegetation indicated that many people had broken off to find what water they could before – or after – VŠllevŠrre; I did so myself as well. The coniferous forest around Kvikkjokk is a primeval forest, and as I descended further I found myself walking between more and more mighty spruces, which is always pleasant. The trail then crossed an actual brook, where I drank greedily, and after that the terrain grew flatter. There were blueberries all around, in huge quantities, and the heat remained.

As I was approaching the water at the outflow of GamajŚhkŚ I heard the sound of an engine, and when I reached the shoreline I saw the two guys and another fellow in a boat that had just departed. They spotted me, however, and the driver – who was the same one that had taken me to Bobšcken on day one – kindly turned around to pick me up too. He recognized me as well, commenting that I had "come back", and as we glided across the shallow water the thunder which had hung in the air all day finally commenced to the south, where there were some rather dark clouds. The duo left for their car shortly after we had made landfall, and I spoke a little with another couple who had just arrived. I considered having lunch there by the water, since it was still beautiful right there and then, but the threatening thunderstorm made me decide to make for the fjeld station.

Trail 2
Following the trail...
Trail 3
...as it descended into...
Trail 4
...the thickening...
Forest 1
...and increasingly...
Trail 5
...coniferous...
Trail 6
...forest
Flower 1
Thistle flower
Meadow 1
A meadow close to the shore right across from...
GamajŚhkŚ 1
...the outflow of GamajŚhkŚ
Darrhašdno 13
On Darrhašdno again
Kvikkjokk 1
Returning to civilization
Water people 1
"Water people"
Boats 1
The boat landing

When I reached the station after 12:30 the rain had passed over the delta, but it appeared to remain there for the time being. There were just a few people inside, and I sat down at a table in the lobby to relax for a while. I then paid the day fee, allowing me to make use of the showers and other facilities, and I also brought a newly arrived tour guide up to speed about the conditions on VŠllevŠrre; he had had some worrying reports about the effects of the drought. I also noticed a notice on the bulletin board, posted by an unlucky soul who had misplaced his digital camera – atop LŚptŚtjŚhkkŚ of all mountains, but even though I walked around quite a lot on the summit when I was there I never found anything but an old discarded tin can, so I hope for his sake that someone honest had already retrieved it.

I proceeded to have my lunch at 13, and it actually seemed to be clearing, with a bit of sunlight. Then I had a most welcome shower, using up the last of the shampoo, and when I returned it was raining heavily, with more people going about as well. I rearranged my pack for the imminent journey home while even more people came in, but the rain had grown lighter. I took it easy in the dining room, which during the day is used as a common room, solving crosswords and finishing both the reindeer meat and the chocolate. The rain made one last forcible effort, and then it ceased.

Church 1
The church...
Church 2
...and bell tower
Kvikkjokk fjeld station 1
Kvikkjokk...
Kvikkjokk fjeld station 2
...fjeld station
GamajŚhkŚ 2
Wild GamajŚhkŚ...
GamajŚhkŚ 3
...flowing past the station
GamajŚhkŚ 4
(fording attempts are strongly discouraged)

I bought some candy in the small shop, and then I went over to the cafe called Utsikten (The View), which overlooks GamajŚhkŚ and BŚrdde, in search for some kind of meal before it closed (and before the bus would leave). I found that they served a number of pies, so I ordered the reindeer one; there was one other woman there who also had pie. By then the bad weather had passed, and it was calm and sunny once more. I ate some of the candy and fiddled with the pack, and then I walked down to the bus stop by the church in good time. There were quite a few people who were taking the bus that day, but I had no trouble finding a seat. At 17:00, right on time, the bus departed, and another visit to the wild side of Sweden was at an end.

GamajŚhkŚ 5
GamajŚhkŚ with BŚrdde behind, seen through the window of...
Utkiken 1
...the Utkiken cafe
Church 3
The church again
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